Capping
post-cold war confusion
You don’t like my cap? I say ‘khong sao’
The author wearing his brown hat adorned with a
five-pointed red star at
All the world’s a stage,” wrote
Shakespeare somewhere. Quite right, Billy, quite right. And in this drama
casually referred to as life, we all get to choose our own costumes.
I don’t know if it quite qualifies
me as “an old-school man of the world,” but like a dude from a bygone epoch,
my costume nearly always includes a hat. Rarely do I leave the house without
one. Maybe it’s the Jewish blood inside my cranium craving some kinda
yarmulke. And well, for whatever it’s worth, for a long spell now, the cap
atop my unruly curls comes from
Above all, these hats I pick up at
bric-a-brac shops in the backpacker area are comfortable. Simple, cotton,
wide-brimmed like a baseball cap, but flat on top instead of pointy; adorned
with a five-pointed red star. As I’d never be caught dead wearing camouflage,
I opt for the earth tones: mud brown, rustic khaki, or black. A sharp cap,
what!
“Communistic” is about the last word
I’d ever come up with to describe them, although technically, it’s not for no
reason why others sometimes do. This pleases or amuses some, acutely irritates
none too few, while lord only knows how many silent reproaches I receive
while wandering the streets of Saigon, San Francisco, Bangalore, etc.
I certainly don’t consider my choice
of headwear to be militant, much less militaristic. Needless to say, a brown
hat with a red star doesn’t remind me of Karl Marx.
As for this cement broiling pan of a
city, I don’t know how or why everyone doesn’t wear some kinda hat at all
times. Either the sun’s blazing down through the depleted ozone like
Armageddon, or it’s pouring rain with a fervor that’s commensurately
Biblical. The best option really, is the classic conical numbers still worn
by this country’s matriarch pajama saints, Buddha bless ‘em.
Back to the communistic caps I
bargain for on Bui Vien via an obscure principle known as “supply and
demand.” There’s absolutely no socialism whatsoever involved in the
purchasing process, so far as I can discern. I’ve been known to pay as much
as four dollars for one, though more often I’ve only had to shell out half
that.
Four years ago, I had the habit of
wearing a nearly identical cap featuring an actual Vietnamese flag, and had
no qualms about returning to my native
I couldn’t imagine why wearing
another country’s flag would ruffle any feathers—especially considering that
had I thought twice about it, I would have assumed, and accurately so, that
99 percent of my compatriots, while perhaps realizing it was some kind of
flag they were looking at on my hat, would have no clue in the world which
country it represented.
My friends, knowing where I’d been,
said things like: “Cool hat, that comes from
For two years, I wore it on every
relatively warm day while residing in
It was Danny, my Korean American
coworker and friend, who pieced it all together. “Maybe it’s because of your
hat, Bro. I think it bothers the Korean ladies too.” I thought he was nuts
and simply lacked faith in the essential decency of Asian American culture.
Without hesitation, I launched an informal investigation.
Sure enough, the (South) Korean
barbeque ladies had wondered if I wasn’t promoting the regime in
Sunny, it turned out, knew damn well
I was wearing a Vietnamese flag on my head and was holding some untraceable
grudge. Worse yet, she could not be sweet talked into a more sensible
outlook. I had to find a new Thai food cart, as even when Danny ordered for
me, Sunny was too sharp not to realize it’d be me who’d be eating the spicy
tofu.
When I returned to
It wasn’t until recent sojourns to
On the streets of
Then the other day in Goa, an older
British bloke—a dead ringer for James Carville—who was completely
antagonistic toward Vietnam, snidely remarked, as I went on the defense, that
he’d noticed my hat earlier (I’d removed it for dinner), inferring he’d sized
up my political sympathies based on what I still consider an innocuous red
star. He wasn’t too bad a guy, this British Carville, but he refused to
accept that I’d spent three years of my life in Vietnam—a crude communist
outpost in his eyes—with nothing but positive experiences to report.
Yes, the nationalist-communist
guerilla warriors of the 20th century did employ the five-pointed red star to
represent their revolutionary ideologies. But the sort of stateless system of
statehood outlined by Marx in The Communist Manifesto has simply never come
to pass... anywhere.
So, if I cross your path with a
five-pointed my red star on my head, let it connote a meaningless ism if you
please, but know that it’d make far more sense to associate it with
alternate, dare I say more successful appropriations... Such as the
Finally, Tuesday morning, while
trying to wrap up this strange piece of writing, I asked the Goan guys at the
joint where I eat breakfast what they thought when they saw my hat. Kuldeep,
a 19-year-old prince of a fella, said: “I see brown, with red star.” The
owner of the bungalow resort and restaurant, Godwin, an experienced and
learned man, said: “One dollar.”
Yass, the five-pointed red star of
Chairman Mao and Che Guevara has been reduced, like everything else on earth,
to a symbolic soldier in the Army of the Almighty Dollar.
It was Mats, a slightly high strung
Swedish yogi, who gave the most insightful answer to my query. After giving
it a long hard ten seconds of thought: “Something revolutionary and also
Rasta—a lot of my Rasta friends wear caps like this—so I think it’s kind of a
Rasta Revolution cap.”
Thank you, Mats. And to everyone
still hung up on the word communism, I say, “Good luck, I hope you make it.”
By Josh Tribe
The writer is an American expat who
lives and works in
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Thứ Bảy, 1 tháng 3, 2014
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