Crowds
flock to Hai Duong to watch the water puppets dance
Hai Duong, a province in the heart of the
Hong (Red) River Delta, is a famous tourist destination for water puppetry, a
unique and traditional artistic display in
While driving to
However, instead of watching a puppet dancing in a
small pond on a small stage at a concert, the charming commune presented
something we will never forget: puppets dancing to live music in a real pond
out in the open, under the shade of the bamboo trees, among the locals.
Puppet shows play an important role in Vietnamese culture,
and some towns and villages throughout
When we first entered the village, residents pointed to
a middle-aged man who was drying his rice on the ground, saying he was the
leader of the water puppet performers there. Pham Khac Xoa, 45, is the head
of the Thanh Hai water puppet group, and like most of his members, he's a
farmer who stopped his work to share some of the secrets of his art with us.
As we headed to a small storage area where the group
kept the puppets, Xoa said, he had practised this art since the age of seven
and has learnt a lot from the village's experienced artists and visiting
puppeteers.
According to Xoa, it's not known exactly when water
puppets began making an appearance in
The puppets are made of light pieces of wood taken from
local fig trees, since these are easy to carve and are light enough to allow
the puppets to float on the water's surface.
After being carved, the wood is dried, painted and
assembled with arms, legs and heads. The puppets have strings that allow
their limbs to be moved. These strings are attached before the puppets are
painted.
We were taken to a newly built temple in the middle of
the lake, where the performances are staged. This area has become a place
where the villagers meet and talk and where festivals are held.
When we joined the crowds that had already gathered for
the show, we were told that Thanh Hai's water puppets had first appeared in
the 18th century and since then have featured at most village festivals, such
as the beginning of the harvest.
Most shows usually have 10 different scenes and require
between five and eight artists, who work behind the curtain. The puppeteers
stand in thigh-high water to control their characters.
Spending hours in the water can be taxing for the
farmers, and so they have to be in good health. Where they once had to sing
and talk during the event, the performers now use recordings of their voices
to allow everyone to hear them clearly.
We were lucky to have live music to accompany the
production and even a chorus of singers to intensify the drama of the show.
When the dances were performed, I was touched by the
sense of simplicity and purity surrounding these farmer-artists who spend
much of their life in the fields and who rely heavily on good weather and
good crops to prosper.
This is their chief artistic outlet, and it's one
shared by the entire village. It's a strong representation of their lives,
their hopes, and the beauty of
After a quick tutorial from these master puppeteers,
one of us was invited to perform in the Dragon Dance, which is part of the
overall show.
He had to control the smallest dragon, which is one of
five to appear on the water. We were told that this dance symbolises good
weather and good crops for the farmers.
Of course, he was not able to do it professionally but
was able to make it move with the other dragons. When we saw him again after
the dance, he was soaked from head to toe.
The lucky guy was quite happy and said it was much
harder than it looked but added that he had had fun doing it. I wished I was
him for a while, but then, I would not have had the chance to enjoy the
entire show.
After we returned to the city in the late afternoon
having enjoyed Hai Duong's specialties of green bean cakes, fish noodles and
some fresh tea, we concluded that the area offers a wealth of things to see,
do and eat, and it's the perfect distance from Ha Noi for a day trip. Whether
it's to watch the show or take in the fresh air of the countryside, you'll
find plenty to experience there.
VNS
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Chủ Nhật, 2 tháng 3, 2014
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