Presenting the four greatest passes in
northwestern Vietnam
A
stunning view of Ma Pi Leng Pass in Ha Giang Province, located in northern
Vietnam.
The four most resplendent passes in Vietnam’s northwestern
region are typically precarious yet romantic at times.
A Tuoi Tre (Youth) newspaper reporter recently
took a memorable trip to the region’s four most treacherous, awe-inspiring
mountain passes.
Backpackers and hikers say that if one has yet to conquer
these four mountain passageways, they are yet to acquire a full taste of the
scenery available at one of the country’s furthermost locations.
These four famous passes are O Quy Ho, Khau Pha, Ma Pi Leng
and Pha Din.
Precarious O Quy Ho
It took the Tuoi Tre reporter
nearly an entire day to travel from Hanoi to the beloved resort town of Sa
Pa, nestled in Lao Cai Province.
The busy tourist town is approximately 376 kilometers from the
capital.
A stunning view of O Quy Ho Pass from Sa Pa, a resort town in the northern province of Lao Cai. Photo: Tuoi Tre
O Quy Ho Pass, also known as Hoang Lien Son Pass, is the
region’s most grandiose of its kind.
The journalist spent his homestay with Hoang, whose wife is of
Dao Do ethnic minority.
“Some 20 years ago, no one would go through O Quy Ho Pass
unless they had to. The pass was merely a narrow, rugged strip that rested
treacherously on steep mountain sides,” Hoang recalled.
“Young men would scale down its abysses and scour for iron
scraps from automobile wreckage following fatal accidents,” he added, sending
chills along his listener’s spine.
The next morning, O Quy Ho loomed through the thick fog.
Most of the pass’s right side is a sheer precipice with
rapids, while abysses are seen on its left side, giving trekkers a
hair-raising experience.
Vang Thi Hoi, a surviving traditional dance troupe member,
recalled that she mounted the pass several times during the early 1940s, when
she was only 13, on her way to performing venues.
“We were all scared out of our wits, as the area was infested
with predators and robbers by day and night,” she added.
The pass’s name “O Quy Ho” is believed to originate from a
bird which is known to be a manifestation of wandering spirits in the area.
Backpackers believe they can experience all four seasons in
different sections of the pass.
The pure forest streams in O Quy Ho have been particularly
nourishing for local sturgeon and salmon farms.
An engineer confirmed that the area provides the best
conditions for the fish to thrive, adding to the locality’s economic growth
and tourist appeal.
Hazy Khau Pha
On the fourth day of his trip, the Tuoi Tre reporter took on Khau Pha, a famous
30-kilometer pass snaking itself through National Highway 32, which links Mu
Cang Chai and Van Chan District in the northeastern province of Yen Bai.
As daylight ran out, he could not conquer the pass but bided
his time by staying at a village in the valley beneath, located in Tu Le
Commune.
There he was treated to the locale’s glutinous rice specialty,
which is made from rice harvested from terrace fields which are irrigated by
pure babbling streams descending from Khau Pha Mountain.
The area is also home to the attractive girls of Thai Trang
(White Thai) ethnic minority, who boast a fair complexion, cascading black
hair and starry eyes.
“Local girls used to feel at ease when they were being
photographed by tourists. However, they have been upset in recent times by
vulgar comments on social networks regarding their long-standing practice of
taking baths naked in streams,” Hoang Van Soan, deputy head of the Tu Le
Commune People’s Committee, said.
“The practice is thus on the verge of dying out,” he added.
Mong ethnic girls take a rest atop Ma Pi Leng Pass. Photo: Tuoi Tre
Unlike the uninhabited O Quy Ho Pass, Khau Pha Pass is dotted
with cottages nestled under the lush foliage and a school with children
frolicking about.
After a while, Sung Troi, or how Thai ethnic people interpret
the name “Khau Pha,” appeared magnificently at a height of approximately
1,500 meters.
Locals often ascend the peak, where they traditionally yell
out their suppressed sufferings to seek an outlet and solutions from deities.
Also on the pinnacle is a memorial monument to Vietnamese
guerillas who perished during the Resistance War Against French Colonialists,
which came to an end in 1954.
The soldiers, who came from nowhere and disappeared into the
dense forests just as quickly, gave French troops quite a scare.
The French soldiers dubbed them “foggy warriors.”
A cliff atop the pinnacle is also perfect for hang-gliders,
while holidaymakers can also take a comfy rest at a bungalow nearby.
Khau Pha Pass and its surroundings have been named a national
scenic spot.
Historically significant Pha Din and Ma Pi
Leng
Toward the end of his trip, the Tuoi Tre reporter
slowly descended the height and traversed Pha Din, a 32-kilometer pass which
connects Dien Bien and Son La Provinces.
The historic pass is closely associated with the Dien Bien Phu
victory over French colonial forces on May 7, 1954.
“Back then Pha Din Pass was so treacherous that it scared most
motorcyclists. However, during the Dien Bien Phu Campaign, the mountain
passage served as one of the main arteries in transporting food, necessities
and cannons,” Tran Van Doi, one of the officers who fought in the battle,
recounted.
“Intrepid soldiers were highly committed to their daring
mission with French choppers circling above,” he added.
After the 1954 milestone, Pha Din Pass underwent major repairs
but its dangerous reputation still stands.
Streets in the vicinity of the pass have been expanded and had
their elevation lowered by 200-400 meters since 2006, offering trekkers two
options, one being safer and the other more daring.
The last of the northwestern region’s four greatest passes is
Ma Pi Leng.
The natural wonder winds ribbon-like through the
UNESCO-recognized Dong Van Karst Plateau, located in Ha Giang Province.
A Mong ethnic family on their way to a paddy field in Quan Ba District in the northern province of Ha Giang. Photo: Tuoi Tre
The pass is of huge historical significance as it is the
hard-earned fruit of thousands of workers who dug through it during the 1950s
and 1960s.
The breathtaking pass gives a gorgeous overall view of the
thread-like Nho Que River beneath.
Villages of the Mong ethnic minority community in Giang Chu
Phin Commune, of Meo Vac District, are nestled at around 1,200 to 1,300
meters above sea level.
The neighborhood, whose beauty has not been known to tourists
until recently, is characterized by treacherous terrain and a hostile wintry
climate.
A memorial stele to guerillas in Khau Pha Pass. Photo: Tuoi Tre
TUOI TRE
NEWS
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Thứ Sáu, 22 tháng 1, 2016
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