‘Hu tieu’ stall in Vietnam’s Mekong
Delta best in SE Asia: tour organizer
A special bowl of 'hu
tieu' with added meat and a bottle of aloe vera juice cost a grand total of
VND20,000 ($0.89) at Ba Sam’s 'hu tieu' stall in Sa Dec City, Dong Thap
Province.By
courtesy of Nguyen Van My
A
tour organizer believes a food stand in the Mekong Delta city of Sa Dec
serves up the best ‘hu tieu’ in all of Southeast Asia.
‘Hu
tieu’ is the Vietnamese name for a noodle soup made with rice noodles, pork
stock, and other toppings, popular in southern Vietnam, China, Cambodia,
Singapore, and Thailand, though the recipe may differ by country.
Nguyen
Van My, a tour operator who has traveled to ten Southeast Asian countries,
praised a ‘hu tieu’ shophouse he dined at in Sa Dec City in Dong Thap
Province as the best across the region.
My’s
criteria consisted of two categories – for the 'hu tieu' to take the top spot
it had to be “cheap and delicious at the same time.” He noted that some
restaurants might serve more delicious food at a higher price and vice versa.
In
the 1950s, 'hu tieu' was sold on just about every corner in Saigon.
Everyone
from big fancy restaurants to small portable street stalls was serving bowls
of the steamy noodles, typically filled with pork, pig innards, chicken, or
venison. Broth was either included or set aside, depending on the style.
“I
have tasted all imaginable styles of 'hu tieu' and, though each person might
enjoy a different type of ‘hu tieu’ depending on their appetite and personal
preference, Ba Sam’s stall in Sa Dec City serves the cheapest and most
delicious bowl I have ever tried,” My wrote to Tuoi Tre (Youth)
newspaper.
Nguyen Van My (in black) exits Ba Sam’s 'hu tieu' stall in Sa Dec
City, Dong Thap Province. Photo: By
courtesy of Nguyen Van My
According
to My, the shop’s history began in 1968, when a Chinese-Vietnamese woman,
nicknamed Ba Sam (Lady Sam), started running a 'hu tieu' business out of her
house on Tran Hung Dao Street in Sa Dec.
The
stall gained traction among local diners for its cheap price and good
quality. The business has since been passed on to her daughter and
granddaughter.
Since
the stall’s inception, My wrote, Ba Sam has always reminded her successors to
keep in mind such simple yet effective business philosophies as “profit from
hard work,” “serve the working class,” “be honest and attentive,” “make just
enough,” and others.
To
prepare for a day of business, the family wakes up at the crack of dawn to
ensure they will have time to stew the broth for one hour with a host of
ingredients including bones, dried squid, and pork. Everything is fresh and
supplied by the same merchants that have worked with the shop for many years.
Dinh Xuan Linh, granddaughter of Ba Sam, slices the pork to serve
diners at Ba Sam’s 'hu tieu' stall in Sa Dec City, Dong Thap Province. Photo: By courtesy of Nguyen Van My
Even
with inflation having hit most of the country, Ba Sam has not let the economy
affect the way her business is run. In fact, a bowl of Ba Sam’s 'hu tieu'
still costs what it did ten years ago - VND6,000 (US$0.27) for a regular bowl
and VND10,000 ($0.45) for a special bowl. Extra meat only costs VND1,000
($0.04).
My
said the quality of Ba Sam’s 'hu tieu' is a far cry from its deceptive price
and people from all over the country flock to the stall throughout the year
for a taste of the dish.
The
broth of the 'hu tieu,' My described, has a sense of natural sweetness from
the bones and the dried squid, the meat is tender and fragrant, and the
noodle is typical of Sa Dec.
The
20m2 shop opens from 6:00 am to 10:00 pm and is only attended
by four family members, each with a seemingly permanent smile.
“I’m
addicted to its rustic bustle, its idyllic smell of labor, and its Sa Dec-ish
taste of a sentimental countryside. Just imagine slurping a bowl of Ba Sam’s
'hu tieu,' sweating like a dog and contemplating unique business
philosophies,” My wrote. “Those are experiences you don’t get at school or
when traveling to a foreign country.”
TUOI TRE
NEWS
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Thứ Năm, 7 tháng 4, 2016
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