US columnist slams Stanford prof for
badmouthing VN
SCOTT HARRIS
A screen grab of the Chicago
Tribune news site, which features Joel Brinkley and his article, is seen in this
image. Photo: Tuoitrenews
Editor’s Note: Hanoi-based Scott Harris, our U.S.
columnist, responds to a Chicago Tribune
article in which Joel Brinkley, a professor of journalism at Stanford University,
labels Vietnam
“an aggressive country” simply because the people here eat meat. Harris, like
many other Vietnamese and international readers, disagrees with most of what
was written in that piece of writing published February 1 on the news site.
Tastes like chicken
As the Year of the
Snake slithers in, my thoughts turn to a true tale that always grosses out of
folks back home – about the night I dined on snake and washed it down with
vodka red from the serpent’s blood. Didn’t want to lose face with my macho
companions.
But perhaps I should call those Vietnamese guys
“aggressive,” the term employed in a bizarre essay by American journalist
Joel Brinkley that is generating sharp criticism for portraying Vietnamese
culture as barbaric. If you haven’t heard about Brinkley’s commentary, let me
fill you in: After ten days of travel in Vietnam, this journalism professor
at Stanford University essentially declared that Vietnam’s “aggressive”
history of warfare stems from its carnivorous ways – particularly the
appetite for thit cho (meat of dogs) andthit chuot (meat of rats).
Brinkley should
know better – yet seems to know just enough to be dangerous. His report
embarrassed its distributor, a syndicate that now says the commentary “did
not meet our journalistic standards” and blamed its release on a lapse in its
“rigorous editing process.” Brinkley’s former colleagues at the New York
Times and present colleagues at Stanford
University must be
shaking their heads. He should be embarrassed himself – but in responding to
criticism that he made matters worse, insulting the people of Cambodia and Laos as well.
I sort of feel
sorry for him. On Wikipedia, somebody altered the first sentence of his
biography to say he is “known for his xenophobic, anti-Vietnamese views.” Yet
as a foreign correspondent, Brinkley won a Pulitzer Prize in 1980 for his
coverage of the genocidal horrors of Cambodia. But some 33 years
later, he concludes this essay by saying he “could not agree more” with “a
Western blogger” who described Vietnam’s culinary practices as
“the most gruesome thing I have ever seen.”
More gruesome than
“the killing fields” of the Khmer Rouge?
There’s trouble
from the start: “You don't have to spend much time in Vietnam
before you notice something unusual. You hear no birds singing, see no
squirrels scrambling up trees or rats scurrying among the garbage. No dogs
out for a walk.”
“In fact, you see
almost no wild or domesticated animals at all. Where'd they all go? You might
be surprised to know: Most have been eaten.”
My first reaction
was puzzlement, thinking about how often I saw rats scurrying in the alleyway
near our first home in Hanoi,
and how I loathed the Vietnamese neighbor’s yippy pet dog that barked at all
hours. Understand that I grew up loving our dachshund Heidi and our mutt
Fanny, so I would say no thanks to barbecued dog. At any rate, there are
plenty of Vietnamese who take their pet dogs out for walk--but, yes, also
worry that their pets will be stolen for their meat.
Brinkley suggests
that Vietnamese tastes are unique – but fails to mention that dog meat is also
on the menu in China and Korea.
Brinkley is also correct in noting that the poaching of tigers, bears, rhinos
and elephants for folk medicine and other uses have devastated these native
species. But wildlife protection experts say that poaching is, of course, not
unique to Vietnam
and expressed puzzlement over Brinkley’s conflation of endangered tigers with
commonplace dogs and rodents.
Brinkley goes on to make sweeping assertions that
Southeast Asian countries such as Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and Myanmar (with
a history more influenced by India) have been in embroiled in fewer wars over
the centuries because, essentially, they eat more rice and less meat than the
Vietnamese (more influenced by China). So, ipso facto . . .
“Vietnam has
always been an aggressive country,” Brinkley declares. “It has fought 17 wars
with China since winning
independence more than 1,000 years ago and has invaded Cambodia
numerous times, most recently in 1979. Meantime, the nations to its west have
largely been passive in recent centuries.”
So he mentions Cambodia in
1979, which he must have known well. Yet, oddly, there is no mention of Pol
Pot and the Khmer Rouge and no context for Vietnam’s intervention, which is
widely credited with helping to end the genocide. Nowhere does he cite the secret
bombing campaigns by (meat-eating) Americans on Cambodia
and Laos
that contributed to the political conditions – or, for that matter, the
widespread spraying of the toxic defoliant Agent Orange and its damage to
flora and fauna. Yes, Vietnam
has been engaged in warfare with neighbors many times over the millennium.
Yet in Brinkley’s broad-brush shorthand, it’s all about those aggressive,
dog-eating, rat-eating Vietnamese.
Now consider Brinkley’s response to criticism : . . . On
the issue of meat and aggressiveness, perhaps that was not as well phrased as
it should have been. But eating a diet rich in protein will make you more
robust than others, in Laos, Cambodia and other Southeast Asian states who
eat rice and very little else. After all half of Laotian children grow up
stunted, even today. In Cambodia
the rate is 40 percent. That means they grow up short and not so smart. Would
it also follow that they would be less aggressive than Vietnamese? I think
so.
So, do protein
imbalances between neighboring cultures lead to warfare? The theory, perhaps,
might be advanced by a passive-aggressive vegan cult who believes prehistoric
humans took a disastrous turn when they stopped just gathering sustenance and
started hunting. Perhaps Brinkley was just riffing the outline on a
provocative manifesto that inspires a global movement from meat to veggies.
Give peas a chance.
In defending his reporting, Brinkley shared a photo he
took in Danang of some skinned rats being prepared for cooking – which, I
confess, made me think: ewww...
But I pulled
myself together to seek the perspective of a Vietnamese guy I’ve known for 20
years. He grew up in Saigon, moved to the U.S.
as a young man and is now in Hanoi
to visit his daughter and grandchildren over the Tet holiday.
My father-in-law laughed. The Vietnamese taste for meat,
he told me, is one of those cultural differences between north and south. Thit
cho, he explained, appeals more to northerners. But down south,
he said, field rodents fatten up on the endless rice. “It tastes like
chicken,” he said.
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