Hanoi ‘cussing noodle’ shop raises
dignity-for-food debate
The 'cussing noodle'
shop owner is seen yelling at a customer in this still image taken from the
CNN video.
A
recent episode of the CNN food
show Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown has
fueled a debate in Vietnam on whether it is worth it to be yelled and cursed
at only to be able to have a bowl of noodles.
“Cussing
noodles” is what world-renowned chef Anthony Bourdain names the noodle shop
on Ngo Si Lien Street in Hanoi, known for its owner, a middle-aged lady who
would not pull any verbal punches when talking to her customers.
The bizarre
eatery was the second feature of the Parts Unknownepisode about
Hanoi, besides the bun cha restaurant where Bourdain joined
President Barack Obama in a dinner during the latter’s visit to Vietnam in
May.
Since it
aired earlier this month, the CNN footage has ignited mixed responses
from Vietnamese viewers.
Many feel
“proud” to see a Hanoi eatery featured on such a major television channel as CNN, whereas others say it is a shame to tell the
world about such an “uncultured” service provider.
Those who
feel it hard to tolerate the yelling and cursing of the restaurant owner
believe she has ruined the friendly and cultured image of the Vietnamese
capital.
The 'cussing noodle' shop owner
Cussing is a habit
As seen in
the CNN footage,
Bourdain was taken to the Ngo Si Lien eatery by Ha, a local friend of his in
the Old Quarter.
The U.S.
chef said the place earns its name as “cussing noodles” thanks to the owner,
who is “known for the free and frank way she communicates with the
customers.”
In
illustrating the ‘habit’ of the owner, the video continues with a scene
showing the lady yelling at a female customer, who seems indecisive on what
to order. “If you are going to order, hurry up,” the owner said.
When the
customer places an order for a bowl of noodles with vermicelli and pig tongue
and ground pork, the owner snaps, “But I don’t have that… If you like ground
pork go to the market, they’ve got lots of it.”
Ha explains
that it is normal for the owner to yell at customers who are indecisive. “You
may say ‘can I have this’ and then ‘oh no, maybe I will have this instead,’
and she will tell you to get out of her shop,” Ha said in the video.
The
proprietor appears on the screen again, saying “It’s best if you just go home
and eat.”
At the
“cussing noodle” restaurant, the best dish is noodles served with pig knuckle
and snout.
“You put up
with the abuse for this glorious steaming bowl of rice noodles with spicy
chilies, a rich hearty, porky broth with pig knuckle and snout,” Bourdain
said.
Dignity for food?
Ironically,
following the CNN footage, the “cussing noodle” shop
just received more customers, who apparently came there out of curiosity.
Some of the
customers revealed to Tuoi Tre (Youth) newspaper that they only
need to “eat nicely” to avoid being yelled at.
Curious
foreign tourists also came to the place to try the experience, and their
views on the foul-mouthed cook are different.
A British
tourist named Joe told Tuoi Tre he does not mind if he is cursed at
by the lady. “I will just laugh it off then,” he said. But Spanish man Farish
believes people should never visit a place where they know they will be
mistreated.
In the
meantime, many Vietnamese people find it hard to simply “put up with the
abuse” to enjoy the dish. Some say they have no idea why people accept the
abuse only to be able to taste the dish, while they should have demanded
proper service.
People waiting at the 'cussing noodle' shop
“Were this
woman to run her business in Saigon, the whole family would have to eat all
what she cooks as there would be no customers,” a Tuoi Tre reader
named Huynh Quoc Vuong said, referring to Ho Chi Minh City by its popular old
name.
“Consumers
in Saigon love eating good dishes, but they will never exchange their dignity
for a bowl of noodles, be it delicious or not.”
Another
reader, Ngo Truc Dien, concurred, commenting right below, “Where has the
self-esteem of these people gone?”
TUOI TRE NEWS
|
Thứ Ba, 11 tháng 10, 2016
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